Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Istanbul: A Quest for Existential Harmony

What in the world am I doing here in Istanbul?

First of all, I've created this blog partly because I'm obligated to do so as a requirement for a scholarship I earned for this study abroad experience. On another note, I've been wanting to share my thoughts about the 'stuff' I study with others for a long time, but never found the discipline to do so. This scholarship will be a good incentive.

I'm here in Turkey to learn more about the Ottoman millet system, an innovative system of law that allowed the multi-religious and multi-ethnic empire to thrive for hundreds of years. While most Ottomans themselves were Muslim, they tolerated many sects of Christianity and Judaism that lived within their empire. Instead of subjecting non-Muslims to Sharia law, they allowed each millet to govern itself according to its own set of laws.

This system was very successful in keeping peace and harmony in the empire. The result was a relatively stable religious pluralistic system that promoted religious freedom for hundreds of years. As the empire weakened in the 1700-1800s, European intervention expanded into the empire. A more European-type government replaced the millet system and religious groups were no longer allowed to rule themselves according to their own laws. Instead, all members of the empire were forced to follow a uniform set of secular laws. This shift in the style of governance ended up leading to more religious tension in the empire.
Crosses that appear in the Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia)

So why am I even interested in all of this? As some of you may already know, I'm working on a project to develop a neurocognitive framework for understanding religious tolerance. These days, the media is constantly spitting out news about religious violence. Whether the violence should be attributed to religion or not, which is a philosophical question I'm very much interested in, I'm convinced that there are ways in which we can teach people to tolerate difference. Yes, there are ways that we can physically change the brains of people who seem to be intolerant to become more tolerant. 

Yeah, it all sounds pretty simple... but it's not. There are plenty of obstacles to making long-lasting cognitive and behavioral changes--biological, economic, social, political. I'm here to get closer to figuring out how it can be done.

If you're baffled now, it's okay. I understand. I'll be writing posts regularly over the coming weeks. I hope you (and I) will have a better understanding about what pluralism truly means and entails in practice by the end of my time here.

For now, As-salamu alaykum, or peace be upon you (a common Arabic language greeting used in Turkey when saying hello or goodbye)!